The Merriest Feet

This weekend, if you are at Kolkata, and looking to get away, you may want to go to Taki. This could be a day trip or an overnight stay.

En route to Taki is Chandraketugarh. As you drive to Taki via the Kharibari – Taki Road, this must-see museum is on your left. If you, drive via the Haroa Road, take a left from the Berachampa crossing and you will find the Museum to your right. Located at : Berachampa https://goo.gl/maps/DLZVmhKCc91zpyFZ8 .

None would have stopped at these otherwise nondescript Bengali villages, Berachampa and Deulia, but for this 2300 year old site.

What would have otherwise been a mere trip to a picturesque picnic spot, on the banks of the Ichchamati river, suddenly metamorphoses itself into a lesson, steeped in history. This pre-Mauryan site is the one that many reputed historians identify as the region that Ptolemy referred to as Gangaridai in his famous treatise – Geographia in 150 CE. The legendary astrologer, Khana and her equally famous father-in-law, the astronomer and mathematician, Mihir are names that are associated with this spot.

Currently a museum has been set up to display the findings at the nearby site. Located on the main road on your left if you are travelling in the direction of Taki, this is a veritable treasure house of terracotta sculptures, pottery, seals and toys. The various coins unearthed at this site clearly indicate a thriving trade. A little off the main road, is the archaeological site itself. Much like Ballal Dhipi off Mayapur, one can see the exposed brick structures of the mound.

Once done at Chandraketugarh, you can proceed to Dhanyakuria. Not merely the sleepy hamlet that it appears to be at first sight, Dhanyakuria has nestled within it, several imposing mansions which were commissioned by wealthy Bengali families and these possibly served as country homes. The beauty of these edifices, is the fact that save one, all have been maintained beautifully.

Gaine Bari : Located at : https://goo.gl/maps/TpUMZmRWEE6KYn9g6

The residential house of the Gaines is palatial to say the least. It is beautifully maintained and a caretaker may allow you to take a look at the outer part of the building, if you happen to reach before noon.

The impressive thakurdalan calls to mind the splendour of the yesteryears.

Ballav Bati (located at : https://goo.gl/maps/oRirLPayg7D5WH4PA )

A little ahead of Gaine Bari is the home of the Ballavs, ‘Ballav Bati’. What catches the eye are the statues that adorn the corners of the terrace. Turbaned figures, painted in blue, red and white proclaim the allegiance of the family to the British Raj. Nobody resides here. The caretaker says that only the outer facade is maintained well. The inside needs attention.

To the left of the building is a small spot for worship, typical of Bengali homes. Another additional pillared structure, possibly an out-house, also bears testimony to how impressive structures fall into disuse. There is a pond attached to the back of the mansion. A walk around to the back shows the lack of maintenance.

The Sawoo House (located at : https://goo.gl/maps/uCGnvu2TsPswxxAx9 )

The thakurdalan of the Sawoo home appears to be vying the one at the Gaines. Impressive stucco work leaves one spellbound as does the quiet dignity of the building. Here you will be welcomed and even told the story of how Patit Chandra Sawoo built this edifice about 200 years ago.

The Gaine Garden (located at : https://goo.gl/maps/qFXLfP5XK9VCgJK96 )

The Gaine Garden or ‘baganbari’ on the main road after you exit the village is Dhanyakuria’s star attraction. It is almost as the best has indeed been left for the last. The entrance gate would capture the imagination of anyone who has grown up reading about knights. The figures of two men fighting a lion could easily be representative of the Indians fighting colonial oppression; the lion symbolising the British Raj in India. As you make your way across the unmown lawns, you could almost expect to see Don Quixote charging at non-existent windmills.

If you are lucky, you may find a caretaker who would show you around. This property was taken over by the government and currently enjoys a heritage tag. However, little has been done to restore any of its grandeur. The awe inspiring view from the top is worth every step of the precarious climb up the crumbling steps.

Taki

Once you have had your fill of these delightful country houses, that one will least expect to see in rural Bengal, you can proceed to Taki for a sumptious lunch at the Hotel Sonar Bangla Taki (located at : https://goo.gl/maps/KcFfqVFiuaqxc3mr6 ) or even a night’s stay to see the sunrise on the Ichchamati. Across the river, is Bangladesh and the river border can be seen if you check your location while on the locally available ferry ride.

Even as you return, exhausted after a day trip or retire at the Hotel Sonar Bangla Taki, you would be filled with a sense of fulfilment as one always is after a day well-spent. Take a day off to be at Taki, be charmed at Chandraketugarh and enjoy a veritable Shangri La at Dhanyakuria. Rest assured, it will be worth it.